Zooming through Israel’s Judaean Desert, with views of the sparkling Dead Sea to my side, I headed to the Masada — the ancient fortress that became an everlasting symbol of Jewish resistance following the Roman siege in 74 AD — but not solely for a lesson in history. Once I arrived, I took a peek over the rocky edge to see a vast sprawl of modern construction at its base, highlighted by a large amphitheater on the dusty ground below. I’d come to attend an opera festival.
Growing up Jewish, the typical religion-focused trip to Israel was never a priority. But after years of listening to friends recount their visits here, I decided to take the plunge. And during just one week in June, I discovered something unexpected: A bustling arts scene that has helped Israel emerge as a prime cultural destination.
Indeed, for a country as small as New Jersey, Israel has an unexpectedly wide array of cultural events and world-class institutions whose presentations and premieres make the nation a travel must-try at most times of the year.
What I found most compelling were the events that blend the arts with history, of which Israel has plenty. By bringing a fresh breath into ancient fixtures, they made for spectacles that were uniquely Israeli.
For me, this realization came into full focus that evening at the Opera at Masada Festival, while I watched Giacomo Puccini’s “Tosca” under a canopy of stars at the feet of the illuminated fortress. Beyond the standard daytime tour of the Masada site, the injection of opera gave the landmark a new appeal while still paying homage to its storied past. It made for a moving production — not to mention a feeling — which can’t be replicated elsewhere.
I had a similar realization earlier that week, when I took a nighttime stroll through the Jerusalem Light Festival — an 8-day-long fixture that illuminated the streets within the Old City’s walls, dousing the centuries-old facades with brilliant color. Large light installations and a series of projections lined the cobblestone paths. It wasn’t just brilliant views at each turn, but literally a stunning look at history.
Though these events will happen once again come 2016, there are other noteworthy institutions to explore all year round.
One upcoming happening is the latest edition of Open House Jerusalem — a weekend-long event in October featuring, among other places, a look at some gems that are free to the public. (Oct. 22-24). One of them is a tour of the Hecht Synagogue at the Hebrew University on Mount Scopus, which has its own western wall: A large window that looks out to panoramic views of the Old City. There will also be a tour of the secluded Templar Cemetery, located in a now bustling area that was first settled in 1873 by a sect of breakaway German protestants.
Impossible to ignore is The Israel Museum in Jerusalem, home of the Dead Sea Scrolls, which recently had a $100 million expansion and renovation. Fitting for the new year, its new “Each Year Anew” exhibit shows a selection of Rosh Hashanah cards from 20th-century Europe, America and Israel. But to ring in the museum’s 50th year, the centerpiece exhibit is “A Brief History of Humankind,” in which artifacts and artwork track roughly 1.5 million years of the growth of civilization in Israel’s vicinity ($14 for adults).
Tempted? If you’re looking to liven up your Israel trip this year, here’s what’s coming up down the line.
Open House Tel Aviv
The Tel Aviv chapter of Open House will happen this May, though the specific dates and itinerary have not yet been set. But what you can expect to see are the city’s hidden gems to be open free to the public.
Jerusalem Opera Festival
Late this June, the Jerusalem Opera Festival put on Gaetano Donizetti’s “L’elisir d’amore” at the Sultan’s Pool — an ancient water basin near the Old City’s walls. This coming summer will bring Guiseppe Verdi’s “Rigoletto.”
Israel Festival
For the multidisciplinary arts — dance, music and theater — performed in a number of venues across Jerusalem, check out the Israel Festival, which returns on May 26. This past year saw a musical homage to composer Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and a multimedia dance-theater performance for children dubbed “Animal Carnival”.
WHERE TO STAY
Leonardo Plaza Hotel Jerusalem
This 269-room property with open views of the city has a lengthy breakfast buffet, featuring shakshuka, hummus and chocolate babka bread, that will fuel you for a full day of museum and event-hopping (from $235).
InterContinental David Tel Aviv
This 555-room hotel’s prime location not only puts you in the middle of the action, but it also stands right in front of the city’s white-sand beach (from $305).
GETTING THERE
El Al offers zippy nonstop service to Tel Aviv from JFK (roundtrip from $875).