Recent research at Israel’s Volcani Center – Agricultural Research Organization has not only uncovered a potentially drought-resistant cocoa strain that could combat the ongoing global shortage of cocoa beans but also opened up possibilities for a homegrown boutique chocolate industry in Israel.

Ellen Graber, lead researcher on the Volcani cocoa project, stumbled upon this discovery in the aftermath of the October 7 Gaza conflict. 

A batch of experimental cocoa seedlings, left unattended for over three months due to the crisis, revealed strong resilience to drought and cold conditions.

“We had transferred 140 seedlings to MOP Darom, an agricultural R&D station in the western Negev, for a pilot project,” she tells ISRAEL21c. 

“Three and a half months had passed with no care or irrigation, and we were all quite convinced that they were just going to go and remove 140 dead plants, and that at some point we would just start the trial a second time.”

When R&D station project leader Talli Ilani finally accessed the site in mid-January, she was astonished to find that about 15 plants had not only survived but were even showing new growth. 

The surviving plants were brought back to Volcani for further study; remarkably, about 70% of these survivors have continued to thrive and develop normally. 

Further investigation revealed that all surviving plants came from the same genetic group.

Cocoa’s having a rough time

Assuming the cocoa plants mature and bear fruit as expected — which will take a few years to find out — this accidental discovery has potentially far-reaching implications.

Cocoa trees are sensitive to heat and require specific temperature ranges for optimal growth. As such, global cocoa production is currently facing significant challenges due to climate change.

“This could be a way to really modernize cocoa agriculture globally.”

Cocoa is primarily grown in tropical regions by smallholder farmers, many of whom lack resources for modern agricultural practices, leaving their crops susceptible to the whims of the weather.

Between 2002 and 2019, Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana — which supply about 60% of the world’s cocoa — lost 25% and 8%, respectively, of their humid primary forest, making it harder for farmers to maintain consistent yields. 

Some Ghanaian cocoa farmers have reported a 33% decrease in yield due to changing weather patterns associated with climate change.

Climate change effects have also contributed to major price volatility in the cocoa market: cocoa prices have risen by 400% in the last year, partly due to weather-related issues. 

Considering the impact that climate change has on the cocoa industry, Graber’s drought-resistant variety could help stabilize production in increasingly unpredictable climate conditions.

“This could be a way to really modernize cocoa agriculture globally,” Graber says, explaining that she hopes to develop this resilient strain as a rootstock for cocoa trees. 

“It [also] has the potential to reduce deforestation by increasing yields in existing plantations.”

Israeli Wonka?

While the primary goal of Graber’s research was to develop solutions for global cocoa cultivation challenges, the discovery has also sparked a vision for a uniquely Israeli cocoa ecosystem.

“I do see this as also a cornerstone for introducing the cocoa crop into Israel,” she says, quickly going on to clarify that although Israel is too small to become a global cocoa exporter, there’s potential for the development of a boutique Israeli chocolate industry.

This could include developing smart nurseries and providing drought-resistant planting material to cocoa growers worldwide.

Her vision includes a “tree to bar” gourmet chocolate industry, producing high-end, kosher “blue and white” chocolate. 

Graber also envisions a range of products and experiences, from cocoa-based beverages and value-added byproducts to agritourism opportunities like chocolate festivals and farm tours.

“I like to think of this as an entire cocoa ecosystem,” Graber emphasized. “That is how I would envision it here in Israel.”

However, turning this vision into reality will require patience and further research. Cocoa trees take time to mature, and several more years of study are needed to fully understand the potential of the drought-resistant strain.

While Graber was careful not to give too many details, the discovery has already attracted interest from both large chocolate companies and investors.

“There is definitely interest,” she says. “And I’m happy that there is. I certainly hope that we’ll be able to develop it more, because it really has a lot of potential.”