As a proud resident of Pardes Hanna-Karkur for the last half decade, I’ve fallen in love with the vibe and unique flavor of this up-and-coming town-turning-city in the Haifa District, numbering about 45,000 residents.
It’s a place that’s currently undergoing a bit of gentrification (of which I’m also a part, I must acknowledge), as fatigued Tel Avivians and Jerusalemites flock to the artistic oasis in search of something a little quieter and with less traffic.
This has, of course, resulted in more noise and traffic — but underneath the surface levels of citification, there’s still a lot of authenticity and beauty to be found around here.
With that in mind, I’ve opted to share a few of my favorite places in Pardes Hanna-Karkur (not including my apartment — you’re not invited there).
From art studios to cafes, from thrift shops to even more thrift shops, this place has got a little bit of something for everyone (as long as you’re looking for the things I’ve listed).
Join me now, as we stroll to our first wonderful destination:
The Wadi
The Wadi is a half-mile stretch of soaring trees, picnic tables and raw nature smack dab in the center of town. Its name comes from the Arabic word for valley — so called because a creek flows down the length of the valley when it rains, and tasteful erosion has turned it into a little dale.
Every fourth week during the dry months, citizens will gather and organize what’s locally known as the Shik Shuk: a long sprawl of blankets and folding tables laden with secondhand clothes, books, old toys and trinkets, plants and artwork on sale for only a few shekels by Pardes Hanna’s residents.
This giant community yard sale is a monthly reminder that we’ve all got something to give — and there’s more often than not a few pieces of treasure to be found there.
Taking a little weekend walk through the Wadi may be just what the doctor ordered after a stressful week. There are times when there’s nothing better than a little trip to the community-constructed rope swing, the free public library nestled nearby, or even just the bursts of clover, grass and edible weeds that pop up overnight every winter.
The trees in the Wadi are remarkably tall, and home to one of Israel’s most prevalent invasive bird species, the ringneck parakeet. (Because these vibrant green birds threaten the local ecosystem, you’re morally not allowed to admit that you like seeing them fluttering from nest to nest in the treetops — but I won’t tell anyone if you don’t.)
Blue Bus hummus
Blue Bus is the best place to buy hummus in all of Israel.
I understand that this is a hugely controversial statement, but I have two primary data points that back this up:
- The bus-turned-restaurant has a lively staff, a fully loaded menu of hummus favorites and a bustling atmosphere that energizes you just enough to counteract the imminent spike in lethargy that comes after eating a half kilogram of fresh hummus.
- Blue Bus is conveniently located about 6 minutes from my home, which is immensely convenient for everybody who lives in my home (read:me).
If you can find a way to park there without getting T-boned or accidentally running over other patrons dining at an outside table, Blue Bus is a must-visit.
The Artist Stables
The Artist Stables are one of the primary attractions of Pardes Hanna-Karkur. This is basically an old cluster of horse stables that were retrofitted into a series of stores, art workshops, restaurants and music venues.
If you’re a nightlife person (which I’m not), there are lots of reasons to come to the stables after sunset and there’s always at least one live music event happening there. If you’re not a nightlife person, there are also plenty of things to check out — glass blowing workshops, sound healing and wind chimes boutiques and one of Israel’s few quality Indian restaurants, for instance.
At present, my hair is long enough that I could probably place highly in a Chewbacca lookalike competition, but back when I was getting a haircut on the regular, my number one place to do it was at LaRosh: a combination barber shop/thrift store that offers fresh and clean cuts as well as fresh and clean secondhand clothing.
Sabba Yosi’s Farmer’s Market
Known colloquially as HaBustan shel Sabba Yosi, this weekly farmers market is a prime destination to check out on a Friday morning. It’s got booths laden with freshly farmed produce, food carts, pottery, handmade jewelry at reasonable prices, handmade candles at unreasonable prices — plus three camels chilling in a nearby pen.
Over the last year, visiting the Bustan has given me an opportunity to support Israeli farmers from the north who have had their livelihoods seriously affected by inclement, missile-laden weather that’s been so prevalent up there.
If you want to try out some of the local artisanal goods, I really recommend the Bustan. There are cheeses, there are pestos, there are ladies sitting on folding chairs who will give you a tattoo while the bustling crowd of pedestrians adds a special “jostled” effect to your new permanent marking.
Noyland
At least half of this article was written from Noyland, a recently opened café in the center of town that boasts freshly baked cinnamon rolls, a glass atrium and an experienced staff that made me feel like a cool guy because they remembered me by name the third time I went there in two weeks.
Noyland has been my recent reason to get out of the house to do my daily writing work, which is a double-edged sword: the siren song of sitting down to write with a hot coffee that I didn’t have to make, the background noise of café chatter and a seat next to a rainy window has a tendency to butt heads with my desire not to spend every shekel I have on freshly baked cinnamon rolls.
Nevertheless, Noyland is a must-visit. If you see me there, please don’t talk to me; I’m busy enjoying this freshly baked cinnamon roll.
Tzomet Karkur
The right to protest is a critical aspect of modern democracy, and the folks in Pardes Hanna-Karkur typically like to gather in one particular spot to do their most emphatic disagreeing with the government: Tzomet Karkur.
Protesters at this intersection between two fairly busy highways right outside of the town will frequently be seen drumming, waving flags, chanting and mostly just showing up to make sure that their message gets across.
If for any reason you’ve missed a protest being held there that you planned to attend, don’t worry — based on the events of the past few years, I’m sure there’s going to be another one within a few days.
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