When I tell people that I live in Beersheva, I am often met with bewilderment.
Most Israeli journalists live in the center of the country, rather than in the south, which makes you understand the mistaken stereotype about Israel’s roads being filled with wandering camels.
Even among my own friends, I am a bit of an anomaly. Most of them left Beersheva not long after graduating from its local world-class institution of higher learning, Ben-Gurion University of the Negev (BGU).
What keeps me in the unofficial capital of the Negev desert? There’s much more here than history and sand; we’ve even got a resident dance company and a major hands-on science museum.
Come on down and check out some of my favorite spots in Beersheva.
1. The Old City
Beersheva (meaning Well of Seven or Well of the Oath) is prominently mentioned in the first book of the Bible as a dwelling place of Abraham. The present-day city of Beersheva is ancient too, dating back to the fourth millennium BCE.
But the Old City quarter is not quite that old. It is comprised almost entirely of structures built during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire, before the British Army took control of what became known as Mandatory Palestine following World War I.
After the war, some of these buildings were used as barracks by British military personnel, including at some point by Field Marshal Edmund Allenby, a senior officer and Imperial Governor.
Today, the Old City structures house hip cafés, art studios, bed-and-breakfasts, shops and museums, including The Negev Art Museum.
2. Monument to the Negev Brigade
This giant monument was designed by legendary Israeli sculptor Dani Karavan and unveiled in 1968. Overlooking the city from the east, it is meant to commemorate members of the Palmach Negev Brigade who fell during the 1948 War of Independence.
Already popular among the locals as a spot for Friday morning picnics, a trendy food truck cafe recently opened its doors right next to the monument, putting it at the top of the list of local attractions.
3. The old Turkish Railway Station
The station first opened in 1915 during the Ottoman period and was used by the Turks to transport troops and supplies from Constantinople during WWI. It was a major and strategic military location during the war. The station was officially closed by British forces in 1927.
In 1991, Israel declared the location a National Historic Site, now situated in the middle of a residential neighborhood. In 2013, the station was renovated and opened as a small rail heritage museum, with the original TCDD 45151 Class steam locomotive located at the entrance.
4. The Negev Center
Built in the early years of modern-day Israel, this two-story, old office building does not appear exceptional on the surface. However, its proximity to BGU and student life has made the location one of the most vibrant areas of the city.
The Negev Center is filled with the city’s coolest bars and trendiest cafés, making it a preferred location for local get-togethers.
5. The Quarry Park (Park HaMachtesh)
For decades, the quarry stood empty in the middle of the city, like a giant bottomless pit. And yet it is full of geological and archeological wonders.
After years of planning and development, last year the renovated quarry was finally opened to the public. It is now simply known as Park HaMachtesh (“crater” or “quarry” in Hebrew).
6. Beersheva River Park
Located in the middle of the desert, Beersheva does not have any natural bodies of water. To help the locals get some cool breeze during scorching summer days, the municipality, in cooperation with JNF-USA, built a tiny artificial lake as the focal point of the 900-acre Beersheva River Park. This is the perfect place for picnics or children’s birthday parties.
7. Writers’ Park
This park, officially opened a couple of years before the start of the Covid-19 pandemic, is themed with sculptures paying homage to famous writers, and hosts cultural events, workshops and readings with local authors.
But it really became the rising star of the city during the coronavirus-related lockdowns. With every other attraction closed, and nowhere to go but supermarkets, residents made Writers’ Park their main hangout spot.
The park started hosting yoga and Pilates classes, as well as outdoor yard sales and other events. Although the obsession over the park has cooled somewhat, it is still a favorite destination for Beersheva locals. And now it has a cool coffee shop to satisfy visitors’ taste buds as well.
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