El Al flies to the rescue

Israeli airline El Al celebrates its 60th anniversary this fall. It’s been a long and interesting ride.This fall, El Al will mark 60 years in the air. The company’s maiden flight took place on September 28, 1948… to pick up the first president of the State of Israel Chaim Weizmann from Geneva and bring him to Israel. Few know that the original El Al insignia blazoned on the company’s first uniforms wasn’t a Star of David; it was a flying camel – a mascot of early Jewish aviators. In its 60 years, El Al has accumulated a stock of “you’ll never believe this” service stories – some are highly “unorthodox services” the company has provided in extraordinary times, and a number concern genuinely bizarre “service routes” that sound like an upscale fly-by-night take-off on Marc Chagall’s famous series of blissful floating lovers seemingly caught in mid-flight.

One winter, El Al looked into using some of the carrier’s fleet as flying movie theaters during slow periods. The idea never got off the ground as a commercial operation… perhaps because the unorthodox flight plan – simply going in circles over the Med – did not qualify moviegoers for duty-free privileges.

Some of El Al’s perks are industry firsts. The most outstanding one to date was inaugurated in 2002 on behalf of a wealthy New York couple who visit Israel at least four times a year, each time bringing their two cats with them. The airline decided to allow small dogs, cats and birds, who indeed had tickets – $89 one-way from New York, Chicago or Miami and $98 from Los Angeles – to collect frequent flyer miles and gain a free trip along with their owners.

Anyone for Paris?

Once upon a time, cynics said “El Al” stood for “Every Landing Always Late.” But in the early 1990s, El Al found itself plagued by a chronic case of corporate jet lag due to passengers’ last-minute duty-free shopping sprees before boarding. At one point, fed up with having to hunt down bargain-hunters, an El Al plane took off on time – leaving seven tardy passengers in the lurch. When questioned by the press, a company official explained: “It’s out of the question that every morning, on almost all flights, we act as if we were a taxi outside the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station – yelling ‘Paris, Paris, Who is going to Paris?’ before taxiing away.”

Speaking of Paris – in 1990, on one El Al plane bound for the French capital, an asthmatic passenger found he had forgotten his medicines in a Tel Aviv hotel room. While there were emergency medical supplies on board, according to news reports, after consultation with El Al’s doctors, the pilot was instructed to fly at 31,000 rather than 43,000 feet – despite the additional fuel consumed at lower altitudes – in order to maintain optimal conditions for the passenger.

In terms of conventional cargo, in 1987 El Al was flying high, grabbing ninth place among trans-Atlantic cargo carriers. At the time, the company’s ads sported a picture of a “flexible” cargo plane with the head of a giraffe and the body of an elephant bulging out of the roof of the cabin, under the caption – “You won’t believe what we’ll do for your cargo.” In 1987 a quarter of the company’s revenues came from carrying almost anything. But one contract was definitely not El Al’s dish: Approached about transporting Canadian ham to Europe – still on the hoof – El Al feared a negative reaction among its religious clientele, and rejected the lucrative offer, hams down.

Indeed, religious clientele constitute a third of the passengers flying El Al. Beyond the sweeping demand that the company refrain from flying on Shabbat, in June 1987 El Al agreed not to fly over the Temple Mount – until the coming of the Messiah. The airline then introduced special plastic liners for “flying coffins” that haredi elements demanded to prevent “mid-flight leakage of the “tum’a” (unclean spirits of the dead) in the presence of Kohanim. And in 2002, a haredi cohen asked to be allowed to zip himself up in a body bag during take-off to avoid close encounter with the tum’a purported to be rising from the Holon Cemetery located directly in the takeoff path from Ben-Gurion Airport. The request was turned down, but air control agreed to detour all flights slightly to avoid flying directly over the cemetery.

One case of “special handling” involved some very special hand-baggage: In a race against time, an American Red Cross representative collected 572 blood samples from Jews of Lithuanian lineage at blood banks in Carmiel near Haifa and the Sheba Medical Center outside Tel Aviv. Packing the contents in an insulated picnic box, the American sped to catch a 2 am El Al flight back to the US – in the hopes of finding a match for a 20-year-old woman badly in need of a bone marrow transplant.

From $4,500 to $60,000 in one flight

One of the most unforgettable humanitarian gestures to which El Al was a part took place on Flight 316 from Tel Aviv to London: Among the passengers was four-year-old Moran Kadosh, on her way to London for a liver transplant. The child was accompanied by a doctor and her parents – who had a mere $4,500 in their pockets to finance surgery. When the child’s plight became known to fellow passengers and El Al flight employees, they organized a spontaneous collection at 35,000 feet. The captain announced over the public address system that Moran’s life was in danger. By the time the jumbo landed at Heathrow, 400 passengers and crew had gathered the $60,000 needed to pay for the transplant.

Another unforgettable episode centered on a volatile pilgrim from Latin America. While politics can make strange bedfellows, the lady in question presented a genuine enigma: Halfway to Tel Aviv, she stripped to the buff, telling a bewildered El Al steward – “I want Shamir! – referring to then-prime minister Yitzhak Shamir. In another case, a passenger got up in mid-flight, walked to the front of the plane and sought to open the door to the cockpit. Diplomatically detained by a cabin attendant who asked where he was going, the passenger replied that he “only wanted to step out for a breath of fresh air…”

In September 1970, the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine skyjacked four airplanes. Few know there was a fifth target – an El Al flight, where the midair attempt was foiled by the pilot, who plunged the aircraft into a 14,000-foot nosedive, throwing the two armed terrorists for a loop, allowing passengers and crew to overpower the pair, including a traveler purported to have clobbered the male assailant over the head with a whiskey bottle before the air marshal took over.

Going in the other direction, in the 1980s a group of Greek pilgrims arrived at Ben-Gurion Airport after an Easter pilgrimage carrying 20 burning candles in glass containers they planned to take on board as carry-on baggage. The candles had been lit in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and they wanted to take the “holy flame” home with them. Not wanting to disappoint the passengers, the cabin crew agreed to stow one lit candle in a galley stove and return it to the group after landing.

While efforts to go the extra mile may raise questions whether any air carrier can hold a candle to El Al, the ultimate case of going out of the way for passengers was Operation Solomon: the historic June 1990 airlift of 15,000 Ethiopian Jews to Israel in 24 hours, using IDF and El Al planes. El Al made aviation history… and The Guinness Book of World Records, for transporting 6,500 passengers in 10 aircraft.

Printed by courtesy of The Jerusalem Post.

Finding hope in the wake of Acre’s riots

Tension may have been bubbling for some time in the mixed Arab-Jewish city of Acre, but there’s still light at the end of the tunnel.I spent more than two years of my life working in an Arab-Jewish community center in a poor “mixed” area of Akko (Acre), whose goal is coexistence but whose scarcity of Jewish users indisputably made me “the other”.

It is not pleasant being “the other”. People watch you, treat you with suspicion and speak their own language in front of you even though you know they are all perfectly capable of conversing in Hebrew. But when you are “the other” no one really wants to speak to you anyway, and as for your religious holidays, well no one acknowledges them either.

But over a period of time, no matter how frustrating, hurtful and off-putting it could be walking into that center in the morning, knowing that no smiles or greetings would be awaiting me, slowly, slowly my Arab colleagues began to understand that my motives were pure and that I really believed that we could work together to make life better for us all.

Looking back over my special time in Akko, and comparing it to last week’s television images of hatred and violence, I think of Rehab, the office administrator who wouldn’t smile at me for almost a year, but who cried when we said goodbye; I think of Kareen, the Arab women’s coordinator who took up the veil last year and who pressed her phone number into my hand when I left; I think of Sara, from the FSU who tried so hard to convince Jewish women that it was safe to come to the center, and of Ahlam, my boss’s wonderful wife who spoke no English, whose Hebrew was far worse than mine and whose friendship was like a warm blanket. Four very special Akko women who overcame suspicion and fear, and became my friends.

Would the sparks of hatred have ignited into full blown riots, widespread damage to property, “pogroms”, and the shameful burning of three Arab flats in “Jewish” areas, if some Arab idiot hadn’t driven into a Jewish neighbourhood on Erev Yom Kippur and triggered an irreversible series of events fueled by religious incitement? Probably not.

But the tension is always bubbling beneath the surface in Akko, the wounds ready to be opened, and extremists on all sides ready, willing and eager to “have a go” and show once and for all that Akko is “their” city in “their” country.

Today I work at the Leo Baeck Education Center in Haifa, another of Israel’s mixed cities, where we are trying to reassure our Arab and Jewish residents that Haifa is different. But the truth is we are holding our breath that no knock-on effect will spread the hatred into the Galilee and Israel’s other mixed cities.

The sad reality is that no one I know will be going near Akko this holiday week; Kareen called off her dinner invitation to my husband and I, the annual Akko Festival, so vital to that city’s economy has been cancelled, and most certainly reservations will not be needed for a table at Uri Buri, my favourite fish restaurant in Akko’s old City.

But am I hopeful that we will find a light at the end of the tunnel? Yes of course I am; so long as I don’t stop believing in what I am doing.

Israel may help the Arab world reach its potential

Imagine what could be achieved in the Middle East if Israeli innovation and enterprise was combined with Arab funding and creativity.In the wake of the Kadima party’s primary elections, the process of replacing Israel’s prime minister will begin in earnest. The leading candidates, as one would expect, have been discussing the familiar litany of problems facing the country: the threat from Iran, the challenge from Hamas, the dangers posed by Hezbollah, and the conflict with Palestinians and Arab countries.

Considering the long list of grave dangers, it might seem surprising that Israel’s economy is not flashing distress signals. In fact, while the global economy has split into two camps – one swimming in oil wealth, the other limping partly because of the high price of oil – Israel, a country with almost no natural resources, has just reported its best unemployment rate in more than two decades.

To be sure, Israel’s economy will slow down because it is deeply intertwined with the rest of the world. But it has kept growing strongly despite an international credit spasm and a spike in commodity prices. One can only imagine the explosion of prosperity that would follow if real peace were achieved in the Middle East.

Glimpses of potential

We can already see glimpses of the potential. In Dubai, the dazzling emirate that dares to be different, an Israeli-born Italian architect, David Fisher, will build another astonishing addition to the Gulf skyline. The 80-floor tower will feature floors that rotate independently, changing the shape of the building and the views from each window. The undulating structure will produce its own energy, with solar-power cells on the roof of each floor. The idea is revolutionary for many reasons, beginning with the birthplace of the architect. Arab countries don’t do business with Israelis. But Israelis have much to contribute, and progressive Arabs working with them could create world-transforming partnerships.

Israel today attracts more foreign investment than anyone, except the United States and the European Union, because its entrepreneurs and scientists have proven that they can produce and innovate. Israeli products and inventions touch all of our lives.

Israel has what the Arab world needs. And Israelis would rejoice in true partnerships with their Arab neighbors.

Until now, the Arab Middle East has looked like a grotesque display of haves and have-nots. Oil-rich countries have splurged on luxuries while importing servants and cheap labor from poor neighbors. Israel, meanwhile – and, for a time, Lebanon – built an economy that relies on the skills and talents of its people. Israeli prosperity created thousands of jobs for Palestinians, until suicide bombings led to check points and dreadful difficulties for West Bank and Gaza residents.

A vibrant economy

Despite wars, violence, and political scandals, Israel has kept investing in its people and creating a vibrant economy that could one-day help remake the entire region.

Last year, the Organization of Economic Cooperation and Development invited Israel to apply for membership. The exclusive OECD brings together 30 of the world’s richest economies that are committed to democracy and free markets.

Undeterred by political scandals and by defense spending – far exceeding US aid to Israel – that sucks out a huge portion of the national income, Israel has an exceptional educational system that stimulates creativity and independent thinking. The country has some of the world’s highest rates of university graduates, of doctorates, book production, technology companies, patents, innovation, discoveries, and much more.

The Arab world has always had enormous potential and, for a time, it produced great knowledge. Then came cultural stagnation. But that will change one day.

Much of the region has been derailed by war, extremism, and despotism. Precious time and treasure have been wasted. Israel, meanwhile, has focused on survival – and has thrived.

Last year, for example, the government decided to give a big push to electric cars. Israel will become the world’s lab for electric cars, with participation from several European companies, and Israeli technology and government incentives to create a national network for electric transportation.

Israel doesn’t have to be an isolated island of innovation. Can we imagine the citizens of a place like Dubai joining hands with Israelis to seek alternatives to oil? Picture that: Gulf oil money and talent working with Israelis pursuing the future beyond oil, or tackling global warming; or working together to build on Israeli inventions that lower water usage in that parched part of the world. Israeli ingenuity and resourcefulness, plus Arab funding and creativity, could turn the Middle East into a region of peace and prosperity, instead of one of violence and extremism.

For now, however, one hears the politicians and returns back to today’s reality. For now, it’s about facing dangers and focusing on survival.

Printed with permission from Frida Ghitis

Why? Because there are no Jews in Pakistan…

Israel gets an unexpected visitor from Pakistan who aims to enlighten his people about the Jewish state.Sometimes, just sometimes, Israeli bureaucracy gets it right.

Earlier this month, a veteran Pakistani television journalist, Khalid Ansari, was filming in the United States for a rare and ambitious project – a major documentary on the Jewish people – to be screened later this year on his country’s widely watched GEO TV network.

If you’re doing a serious program on the Jews, Rabbi Abraham Cooper of the Los Angeles-based Simon Wiesenthal Center reasonably suggested to him, you really ought to go to the Jewish state for some of your footage and interviews.

And lo, it came to pass: Ansari promptly applied for a visa. And within a couple of days, Israel’s New York consulate contacted him to tell him that it had been granted.

Ansari this week thus became probably the first Pakistani journalist to report extensively from Israel for his highly significant home country – the world’s sixth most populous, the second largest Muslim nation (after Indonesia), bordered by India, China, Afghanistan and Iran, and with a nuclear arsenal estimated at anything from 40 to 100-plus warheads.

He interviewed various political leaders, officials and other notables, visited the Knesset, filmed in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, and absorbed a unique first-hand impression of our country for the benefit of his.

His brief stay here follows a limited, quiet warming of unofficial contacts in recent years under former president Pervez Musharraf, who three years ago shook hands with prime minister Ariel Sharon at a UN reception, organized a meeting in Turkey between his foreign minister and ours, and addressed a landmark dinner of the American Jewish Congress in the presence of Israel’s UN ambassador Dan Gillerman.

A remarkable individual

But Ansari’s Israeli sojourn is remarkable, nonetheless, and he seems to be quite a remarkable individual; Musharraf was prepared to converse only very briefly with this Israeli journalist at the AJCongress dinner in Manhattan, and his answer to my question about when Pakistan might formally establish contacts with Israel was firmly noncommittal. Reporter Ansari – dapper, immaculate, at once formal and amiable, and bristling with businesslike purpose – is positively blazing the trail.

The original idea for the Jewish people documentary, he told me in a kind of “mutual interview” – he filmed me for his TV show; I asked him questions for this column – was his, a necessary response to a gaping lacuna: “The Jews are almost unknown in Pakistan,” he said simply, “because there are no Jews in Pakistan.”

And the decision to take up Cooper’s suggestion and add Israel to the filming itinerary was also his and his alone. “I actually came here without the budget,” he said lightly.

But of course his board had approved the Israel segment now? Well, he confessed with a little shrug, he hadn’t really discussed it with them yet.

Ansari asked me open-minded questions – some apparently well informed, some more naïve, all earnest. The proof, of course, will be in the program.

He wanted to know about the freedom of the press in this country, and our capacity to criticize the government. Were all Israelis Zionists, he wondered? All right, leaving aside the non-Jewish minority, were all Jewish Israelis Zionists? Was it true that some ultra-Orthodox Jews believe the pre-messianic Jewish state to be a blasphemous entity? And yet they live here anyway, even as some of them publicly denounce you to your enemies, he marveled!

Tell my viewers

He asked me about Israeli achievement – the absorption of immigrants, the revival of Hebrew, scientific excellence, high-tech innovation. Tell my viewers, he urged.

He wondered whether I was optimistic about the peace process, and told me I should be when I answered that I was not. He listened carefully when I argued that Israel, for all its military strength, feels both demographically and territorially threatened and is unlikely to sanction significant territorial compromise in the absence of a compelling sense that the Palestinians have genuinely internalized our right to sovereignty in this region as a Jewish state. He asked several questions about the “right of return” and gave me as much time as I sought to try to explain why, in much the same way as Israel has built a thriving state by absorbing its refugees, the Palestinians would have to do the same, because Israel would not commit national suicide by taking them in.

I don’t think he was burning with strong objections to what I was saying, but if he was, he kept them to himself. Apparently, he had similar conversations with Deputy Foreign Minister Majallie Whbee and Knesset member Menahem Ben-Sasson (both of Kadima), listening more than he talked. He also met, among others, with law professor Amnon Rubinstein at the Interdisciplinary Center, Herzliya, and veteran Diaspora leader and Jerusalem Post columnist Isi Leibler (which is how he got to me).

He was not, Ansari told me with single-minded focus, meeting with Palestinians on this trip. Perhaps next time. This was a documentary about the Jews.

His working title is The Children of Abraham. His intended message? “That peace and harmony must prevail.”

When his camera was off and my notebook was out, he offered a robust defense of Islam, which he insisted is not an extreme religion. You kill, under Islam, only those who are trying to kill you, he said.

Through the centuries, Muslims and Jews had never slaughtered each other, he offered (with unfortunate inaccuracy as regards the former). The way he saw it, the trouble had really only started when Israel was established. And that was why he felt the reporter’s obligation to take the opportunity to come here, and try to understand us.

When I told him about Israel’s concerns over Iran’s nuclear program, and our concerns, too, of what might become of neighboring Pakistan’s nukes if instability deepened in his country, he assured me gravely that Pakistan had never conceived of Israel as a nuclear target and told me a little hesitantly of reports back home that Israel might seek to strike at Pakistan’s nuclear facilities. He looked relieved when I waved away the notion.

But he waved away Israel’s anxieties, too, about extremism in his country and the prospect of those nukes falling into irresponsible hands. Asif Zardari, Pakistan’s new president, has a reputation both for corruption and psychiatric problems. Pakistan has already produced the world’s leading rogue nuclear sales entrepreneur in A.Q. Khan. Meanwhile, al-Qaida in Pakistan is reportedly making notable gains in its battle against the government.

But Ansari insisted that “you don’t need to worry. Believe me, I have sometimes been very critical of the army in Pakistan if it intervenes in politics.” But, he said, he had no such criticism when it came to the army’s control of Pakistan’s nuclear weapons. “They’re in the safest hands.”

And with that, the Jewish state’s unexpected journalistic visitor was on his way – heading home to a country born a few short months before ours was revived; home to the very city, Karachi, where journalist Daniel Pearl was beheaded six and half years ago for the sin of being Jewish; home to tell our people’s story to his people… because there are no Jews in Pakistan.

The views reflected in this piece do not necessarily reflect those of ISRAEL21c.

Printed by courtesy of The Jerusalem Post.

The metamorphosis of a metropolis

Over the years, Haifa has blossomed into an enchanting metropolis, home to a multitude of faiths and nationalities.Haifa has always had a special place in my heart. It was there, decades ago as a teenage immigrant that I found my first job, in the PR department of the now defunct Israel Maritime Fruit Carriers, after completing a kibbutz ulpan.

In the early morning haze, I would board the bus at the top of the Carmel in Naveh Sha’anan, where I shared an apartment with other post-ulpan girlfriends, and marvel at the beauty of the view as we wound our way through the various neighborhoods on our way to the port area below. No one, I wrote my parents in an ardent letter back home, gets a view like that on their way to work in London.

But if I removed my rose-colored glasses, all was not perfect in Haifa of the 1970s. The view from high above was beautiful, but up close the port area was dingy, the shops of the lower Hadar were not much brighter, and it was only when you traveled up to the Ahuza neighborhood with its posh residential area with parks, offices, shops and hotels for the well heeled that you saw the real beauty of Haifa.

But over the years, Haifa has blossomed into an enchanting metropolis, home to a multitude of faiths and nationalities. The once dismal port area has now become an attractive industrial area with a growing high-tech center. Upscale office buildings nudge magnificent museums, and highways and overpasses modulate the commuter and tourist traffic.

As a port, it’s only natural that many of Haifa’s sites and museums are connected to Israel’s maritime past. For example, the Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum is built around the renovated remains of the illegal immigrant ship the Af Al Pi Chen (“Despite Everything”). The museum tells the riveting story of the intrepid captains, crew and refugees from blood-soaked Europe who risked their lives to run the British naval blockade and try to land on the shores of Palestine.

One of the films at the museum tells the story of life in the camps in Cyprus. From there you move on to the naval history part of the museum. The large outdoor expanse has sections from landmark sea vessels, including Israel’s first missile launcher, and the deck of a boat captured from the Egyptians. Israel has never glossed over its tragedies and failures, and it is fitting that both the entrance and farthest point of the display are devoted to Israel’s submarine history.

As you approach the museum, a section of the towering bridge of the ill-fated Dakar submarine rises before you. This is the only part of the vessel that was retrieved 30 years after disappearing on its maiden voyage in 1968.

At the farthest point of the museum is an intact submarine the INS (Israel Naval Ship) Gal, which was placed in the museum less than a year ago. As I ducked my head and walked through the narrow aisle, I realized what space economy means. Every nook and cranny has a purpose.

Down the road, we delved deeper into the past at the National Maritime Museum, which houses marine archeological finds. One of the most exciting discoveries was a 2,000-year-old battering ram from a Greek warship that had been found off the shore of Atlit in the 1980s. There are also Egyptian burial barges and many statues of Poseidon, the god of the sea. The icons were thrown overboard when there was a storm in an attempt to appease the gods and calm the sea.

Just across the road, you enter the biblical era. The prophet Elijah is sacred to all the local religions, and each one claims to house the cave where he stopped to pray on his way to challenge and ultimately kill the false prophets of Baal. The Stella Maris Carmelite convent higher up the hill has its cave just beneath the altar. Lower down there is a cave where Jews often gather to recite the afternoon Minha prayer.

Another spot associated with Elijah is the Muhraka (fire) high up in the Carmel Forest, said to be the spot where Elijah challenged the priests of Baal.

A visit to a port is not complete without enjoying a sail around the harbor. The Carmelit takes visitors for a short ride around the port, just enough time to enjoy a packed lunch or the light refreshments served on board.

Later on, the children in our group had great fun at the National Museum of Science and Technology, housed in the magnificent old Technion building. In the various interactive rooms, they learned about mirrors and reflections, the eclipse of the sun, ancient and modern computers, as well as many other scientific oddities that I wished had been explained to me so clearly when I was at school.

The Railway Museum, in the port area, is another specialty museum. One of the things that makes this museum so special is that it is built around the old Haifa East railway station. There are several brightly painted old locomotives on display, including the last steam engine that operated in Israel. And you can look inside the VIP carriages that transported important visitors from their boat inland, which look more like a hotel on rails.

Another “trip” in itself is the Castra Mall, at the southern entrance to Haifa. Never before had anyone thought to combine supermarket shopping and lunch with museums and culture. Built on the site of the ancient city of Castra, the mall has an Archeology Museum with finds from the on-site digs, as well as Magda Watt’s Doll Museum, depicting scenes from the Bible and modern Israeli history.

What’s more, we watched in fascination as a talented glass blower formed animals and flowers through the heat of melted glass, while in another corner of the mall a woman was making papier-mâché dolls. One of the main indoor highlights is the Castra Art Gallery with regularly changing exhibitions. If you visit the mall, be sure to step outside onto the wrap-around terrace and look at the 24 biblical scenes painted on ceramic tiles which cover the domed roof. Definitely a mall with a difference.

Reprinted by courtesy of The Jerusalem Post.